Lombardi's

Here's the thing about a Midtown Thai spot a few steps from Grand Central: it could phone it in and still fill tables off commuter foot traffic.

Malii Gramercy occupies the kind of Second Avenue address that doesn't beg for attention, which suits it.

Florentin takes its name from the bohemian Tel Aviv neighbourhood and its cooking philosophy from a wider Mediterranean arc — French, Italian, Greek and Middle Eastern influences pulled into a single coherent kitchen.

Los Tacos No.

A 24-hour diner is a strange thing to evaluate on Sophie's usual terms — there's no pacing to a room that never closes, no held shape to a night that bleeds into morning.