Bistrot Fortune

COQCOR — the name is a contraction of *Le Coq Coréen*, Korean Chicken — commits to that premise without apology.

Cam's Déjeuner has built genuine word-of-mouth along Saint-Laurent before the critical apparatus caught up — which is usually a reliable signal that a place is doing something right for the neighbourhood rather than for the camera.

Côte-des-Neiges rarely enters the burger conversation, which says more about where people are looking than about what's actually there.

Saint-Henri has a way of producing restaurants that feel genuinely local rather than locally themed, and La Toile — sitting on Saint-Jacques in the thick of the neighbourhood — sounds like a textbook example.

Mr.