Le 30 Fevrier

Montreal has no shortage of vegetarian restaurants, but plant-based Indian cooking done with genuine culinary ambition is a different category — and Tula is essentially the only room in the city occupying it.

Pizzeria La Focaccia sits on Mont-Royal Est in the Plateau, the kind of address that sounds like every other neighbourhood pizzeria until you look a little closer at what's actually going on.

Let's be clear about what this is: a tiny Plateau bakery that has done one thing since the late '90s, and a slice of seating that doesn't pretend to be a room you'd linger in.

Fukurō doesn't slot cleanly into any single category, which appears to be entirely the point.

Thirty years on Avenue Duluth and Chez José Café still reads, from everything regulars and longtime Plateau residents report, like a place that got it right early and saw no reason to complicate things.