Blackmoor Bar and Kitchen

Holdfast Specialty Seafood Co.

Tiki bars usually fall into one of two camps: serious cocktails with sad food, or kitschy rooms where nobody's really cooking.

Let's be honest about what Marcelino's Seaport is: a waterfront cocktail bar with an outdoor DJ booth, a lighted mirror wall built for your phone, and a 21+ door policy after 9.

Chubbs sits on Adams Street in Dorchester, which is where you should adjust any expectations about the crowd — this is neighborhood Mexican with a luchador streak, not a downtown scene tax.

Here's the pitch: a hidden bar inside another hidden bar, tucked behind a heavy curtain in a nondescript North End building, down a carpeted flight of stairs past cherry-red furniture and tassel lamps.