Editorial review•Apr 8, 2026
Gjelina earns its place at the top of a Los Angeles list because it turns the basic idea of California dining into a complete meal. The current Venice menu gives equal weight to pizza, pasta, seafood, and vegetables, then makes the connections feel natural. Start with the Mixed Mushroom pizza, a spare combination of rosemary, confit garlic, and olive oil that lets the crust and mushrooms do the work. Follow it with the Wood Roasted Cauliflower, dressed only with garlic, chile, and vinegar, or the Grilled Broccolini with garlic and fermented Fresno chile vinaigrette. These are not side orders to fill out the table. They are the clearest statement of the kitchen's point of view.
The pasta section carries the same confidence. Saffron Spaghetti brings bottarga, confit tomato, garlic, Calabrian chile, and breadcrumbs into a dish with real salt, heat, and texture. It is an excellent counterweight to the vegetables and pizza and a strong reason to order across the menu rather than choosing a single category. The room on Abbot Kinney still works best when the table is willing to share, linger, and leave room for another plate.
For dinner, reserve ahead and build an order around one pizza, two vegetables, and a pasta. The menu changes with the season, but that structure is the reliable way to understand why Gjelina remains such an essential Venice meal.
Sophie Laurent, Food Editor